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L'Atelier de Joel Robuchon - Hong Kong


On my final night in Hong Kong, I had to visit L'Atelier, especially with the recent passing of Chef Robuchon, I figured it'd be fitting to dine when I had the opportunity. This particular location is actually 3 Michelin star rated and I had to see how it stacked up against the others I've been to. I hopped on the metro to Central station and then headed upstairs into the mall.


On my way I walked past Dr Fern's Gin Parlour that had been recommended by a friend, I almost decided to stop in, but decided it's best to not overdo it and head to L'Atelier.

Through the mall and without having done any prior research into exactly where the restaurant was, I ended up wandering around.

But on the upper floor knew I was getting close with tables for the more casual Le Salon.

And then I found the gateway with very chic escalators.

Super excited for the meal ahead!

Beautiful and dramatic artwork in the signature black and red of Joel restaurants.

From the check-in podium into the restaurant itself with the signature bar seating around the kitchen.

The wine cellar to the left on your way in.

And the signature rows of green plants that always add a beautiful and calming contrast to the black and red.

The kitchen was smaller than I was expecting compared to the Shanghai location at least, but efficient and beautiful as always.

I absolutely love being able to watch the preparations.

Elegant place settings as usual.

The wines by the glass which I did.

The menu had several options ranging from a larger tasting menu, to small and large plates. I ended up building my own tasting menu amongst the small and large plates.



The bread basket was wonderful with about 15-types of bread. I had to contain myself and limited myself to the mini baguettes and the small Comte cheese rolls.

Perfectly cultured butter with the JR stamp was creamy, slightly cheesy and fresh.

I started with a glass of Veuve, always a nice aperitif with a citrus and floral nose, medium body that is crisp, more green apple and very little toastiness. Exactly what I was in the mood for.

An amuse of sweet corn custard was a nice way to kick things off and truly captured the essence of corn.

My first course was the full order of La Langoustine, the famous langoustine or prawn with black truffle, a foie sauce and cabbage in the middle. This was hands down the best rendition of the dish out of any Joel restaurant (Paris included) I've had. Stunning!


For my first red wine, I went with a new to me, 1998 Chateau Musar, a Lebanese wine that was absolutely stunning. It is a natural wine and was slightly murky, but it wasn't sediment. The nose was an incredible mixture of some barnyard and dark fruits, the body was silky with black currants, blueberries, raspberries, graphite, earthiness, with slight acidity to and smooth but robust matured tannins. I immediately went on K&L to see if I could find a bottle, but sadly they only had younger vintages. Time to track some down!

The next dish was La Cepe, the mushroom and Iberico ham raviolis that were prepared more like gyoza and lightly fried. The flavors were so pure, delicate and combined beautifully. I could have ate two more helpings!

I was all good with my Musar when I was talked into a half glass of the 2005 Montrose. It was definitely young and tight for my liking, but still really nice. The nose was clearly dark fruit, spices and a tiny hint of earthiness, the body was full with dark fruits, cassis, blackberries, silky yet robust tannins that need another 5-10 years before this is truly singing. It was still wonderful to enjoy.

On a quick pitstop mid-meal, wonderful artwork in the hallway to the bathrooms.

Back and ready for my final main, I had to check out their rendition of my favorite quail dish. It was wonderful with the perfectly grilled and glazed quail legs, stuffed breasts with foie gras, the magical Robuchon pomme puree and a fresh bundle of herb salad. Stupendous as on Robuchon restaurants can do!


Then time for dessert and despite not having many courses, was quite full and decided to go lighter - a shocker for me.

Despite trying the Sauternes, since I chose a lighter dessert went with the recommended Moscato D'Asti which was wonderfully ever so slightly effervescent, crisp with melon, honeysuckle, apples and acid.

For my dessert I went with the berry and white chocolate yogurt La Fraise.

It was gorgeous and perfect being not too heavy or sweet.

And after a wonderful meal, a couple final mignardises. I requested to have them boxed to go.

In fact they suggested if I wanted to take any of the bread from my basket to go, they could box it up. Since I flew out the next morning I said sure box it and give me more of my favorites. It actually held up quite perfectly and warmed up nicely when I got home. MsFlamingo laughed so hard when she saw me unpack my bags, but also wasn't surprised at all :)


L'Atelier Hong Kong was fantastic, deserving of the 3-stars and I am so excited to return whenever I am back in Hong Kong.

 

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